Finke Gorge is a large park in central Australia. One tiny part of the park, Palm Valley, is relatively well known. The rest of the park remains a mystery to all but a few keen four wheel drivers. (No part of the park is accesible without a four wheel drive.) Some of the magnificent places we walk probably receive an average of less than 20 visitors per year.
Back in the 1990s, our Finke Gorge trips went nearly every year. Then, for some unknown reason, people stopped coming, preferring to concentrate on better known places like the Macdonnell Ranges and Watarrka (Kings Canyon) National Park. The photos below were taken on a trip in August 2008, our first trip to the park since 1997. Even in this exceptionally dry year, there was plenty of water to be found. Scroll down and see the kind of things you might enjoy if you came to see this wonderful place for yourself.
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Palm Valley is justly famous. A unique combination of geological features has allowed the palms to thrive long after their relatives which once populated the whole of central Australia had disappeared. Rather than restricting ourselves to a couple of hours, we put on packs and head out for a few days. The two photos below show us walking through valley and our first camp site, well beyond the day trippers' marked trail.
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Concern about the water supply had caused us to camp somewhat sooner than we would normally have done. We needn't have worried. We found pool after pool as we continued up Palm Creek. The photo at left below shows one of the pools. The one at right shows a rest stop near another.
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As we continued up the valley, Palm Creek broke into a number of channels and the walk got a bit scrubbier. Eventually, we decided it was time to go up and over a ridge to another creek.
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Although this area had had almost no rain over the past two or more years, we still found flowers in bloom. The photos below show a grevillea and an acacia.
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The descent into the next valley is a bit scrubbier and steeper, but not much so. You do have to work a little to get to the best places. |
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Not far from where we made our camp, we found a large rock shelter with a number of hand paintings. The photo at left below shows the shelter. The one at right is a closeup of some of the paintings. |
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We camped on a tributary of a tributary of Palm Creek. In a normal year, we would have had a pool. Fortunately, we knew it was exceptionally dry so we'd carried water for the night. The photo at right shows the camp fire. The two photos below show tha group at the camp site. If you come in the middle of the year, you have to be prepared for cold nights. |
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The next morning we set off down the main creek. The walking was easy with a variety of vegetation. The two photos below show the creek. The one at right shows a cypress. The one at left shows several cycads.
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Just as we got back to Palm Creek, we encountered a dingo up close. He wasn't very concerned and allowed us to take some good photos. We were doubly lucky as the black dingo is much less common than the tan one. The photo right below shows us walking down Palm Creek toward the cars. This walk was over. Still better was to come. |
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You can walk from Palm Valley to the Boggy Hole track, a walk we've done in the past. We didn't have time on this trip so we drove back out to the main road and then down the track. Collecting firewood is not permitted along the track once you re-enter the park so we stocked up beforehand. |
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Boggy Hole is one of the few large permanent water holes in the Centre. The two photos below give you some idea of the size. The one at left is looking down from the top (north) end. The one at right is our camp site, about two thirds of the way along, beyond the bend in the first photo. |
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Boggy Hole is the start of the Deep Canyon walk. The first part of the walk sees you scramble over huge boulders, after which you climb up a dry waterfall and begin the easy part of the walk in the small gorge above the falls. The photos below give you an idea what it's like, not easy, but not all that hard either. |